Pomerol, From a Little Expensive on Up

Pomerol, From a Little Expensive on Up

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Alex Cretey-Systermans for The New York Times

While Pomerol is often a wonderful wine, it is usually expensive. If money is no object, go right ahead and track down classic labels like Vieux Château Certan and Château Trotanoy, which will run around $175 to $250 a bottle, to say nothing of rare objects of desire like Château Lafleur ($600 and up) and Pétrus (if you have to ask …).

More down-to-earth bottles exist, though they are almost never inexpensive. Here are five producers worth seeking out, in alphabetical order. (Prices are estimates for recent vintages.)

Château Bellegrave Structured and minerally (Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, Pa., $55).

Château Bourgneuf Pomerol for the people. Precise, floral and nuanced (Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Oakland, Calif., $45).

Château Clinet Rich and opulent (Monsieur Touton, New York, $80).

Château Gombaude-Guillot Sumptuous and pure, needs time to age (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif., $80).

Clos St.-André Tiny estate producing soulful, lovely wines (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York, $80).

When selecting bottles, the producer is the most important variable. But wines from good producers will always reflect the characteristics of the vintage. Here are brief descriptions of recent Pomerol vintages.

2011 Fresh, not-opulent wines.

2012 Ripe, round, straightforward.

2013 Difficult vintage, lean wines.

2014 Classic style, elegant and fresh.

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